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58. 30+ Years of Surf, Photography, and Finding Gratitude: Mattson Culbert on Facing Cancer and Life’s Challenges

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Content provided by Laura Day at The Surf Société. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Laura Day at The Surf Société or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ro.player.fm/legal.

After spending over 30 years chasing waves and documenting epic California swells, Mattson Culbert—a surfer, photographer, and filmmaker—faced one of the biggest challenges of his life: a thyroid cancer diagnosis. 🌊 But instead of letting it hold him back, Mattson embraced vulnerability, rediscovered gratitude, and deepened his connection to the ocean.

To me, though, he’s more than just a talented photographer and lifelong surfer—he’s like a big brother, a kuya, the surf uncle we all wish we had, full of wisdom, humor, and the kind of perspective only decades in the water can bring.

In this episode of Confessions of a Surf Lady: The First Women’s Surfing Podcast™, Mattson and I talk about the evolution of surf culture, the resilience we learn from the ocean, and how his cancer journey reshaped his outlook on life. This conversation goes beyond the epic swell—it’s about family, gratitude, and the lessons we take with us both in and out of the water.

Resilience Through Challenges: How Mattson’s journey with thyroid cancer reshaped his perspective on surfing, life, and legacy.

Cultural Shifts in Surfing: A deep dive into surf culture in the ‘90s and how it compares to today’s more inclusive scene.

Respecting the Ocean: The importance of knowledge, humility, and community in and out of the lineup.

Resources:

Confessions of a Surf Lady, is a women's surfing podcast that is supported by our amazing partners and listeners like you. This means we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you when you make a purchase through the links provided. Thank you for being a part of our community and supporting the podcast.

Send me a Message! Be sure to leave your contact info.

Support the show

Confessions of a Surf Lady, women's surfing podcast, is supported by The Surf Société, our unique digital women's surfing platform where we come together to Learn More. Surf Better. Live Happy. Learn more at Surfsociete.com

  continue reading

69 episoade

Artwork
iconDistribuie
 
Manage episode 455989642 series 2836081
Content provided by Laura Day at The Surf Société. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Laura Day at The Surf Société or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ro.player.fm/legal.

After spending over 30 years chasing waves and documenting epic California swells, Mattson Culbert—a surfer, photographer, and filmmaker—faced one of the biggest challenges of his life: a thyroid cancer diagnosis. 🌊 But instead of letting it hold him back, Mattson embraced vulnerability, rediscovered gratitude, and deepened his connection to the ocean.

To me, though, he’s more than just a talented photographer and lifelong surfer—he’s like a big brother, a kuya, the surf uncle we all wish we had, full of wisdom, humor, and the kind of perspective only decades in the water can bring.

In this episode of Confessions of a Surf Lady: The First Women’s Surfing Podcast™, Mattson and I talk about the evolution of surf culture, the resilience we learn from the ocean, and how his cancer journey reshaped his outlook on life. This conversation goes beyond the epic swell—it’s about family, gratitude, and the lessons we take with us both in and out of the water.

Resilience Through Challenges: How Mattson’s journey with thyroid cancer reshaped his perspective on surfing, life, and legacy.

Cultural Shifts in Surfing: A deep dive into surf culture in the ‘90s and how it compares to today’s more inclusive scene.

Respecting the Ocean: The importance of knowledge, humility, and community in and out of the lineup.

Resources:

Confessions of a Surf Lady, is a women's surfing podcast that is supported by our amazing partners and listeners like you. This means we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you when you make a purchase through the links provided. Thank you for being a part of our community and supporting the podcast.

Send me a Message! Be sure to leave your contact info.

Support the show

Confessions of a Surf Lady, women's surfing podcast, is supported by The Surf Société, our unique digital women's surfing platform where we come together to Learn More. Surf Better. Live Happy. Learn more at Surfsociete.com

  continue reading

69 episoade

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